20. Ladadika

You find yourself in Katouni Square and the area around you is known as Ladadika. It is one of the oldest and most historic neighbourhoods of Thessaloniki and has seen an incredible number of changes over the decades. The area actually consists of two parts… Ano (or Upper) Ladadika and Kato (or Lower) Ladadika, which are essentially separated by Tsimiski Street… and the two areas together are bordered by a number of streets: Navarchou Kountouriotou, Salaminos, Leontos Sofou, Egnatia and Ionos Dragoumi.

Today, the Ladadika district is known for its many bars and restaurants. At night, the neighbourhood comes alive as its squares—Morihovou, Emboriou, and Katouni—and narrow streets fill with people.

Let's take a step back in time to uncover the history of the fascinating neighbourhood of Ladadika.

You are very close to the port of Thessaloniki, which has played a decisive role in its history. It began developing as a port market in the 16th century, when Thessaloniki was under Ottoman rule. Until the end of the 19th century, it was the only area to develop outside Thessaloniki's land and sea walls. 

During the Ottoman period, this was a trade centre with an Egyptian market (known as Misir Tarsi), selling goods like cereals, flax, sugar, rice, coffee and other imports from Egypt. But the product that gave the neighbourhood its name was actually oil (ladi in Greek), referring to the many oil merchants who had been active in the neighbourhood since Ottoman times. Records from 1668 indicate that there were 500 shops in the Egyptian market and the market itself is commemorated in the name of one of the main streets of the neighbourhood, Egyptou Street. 

From 1870 onwards, after the coastal walls in the area had been demolished, the neighbourhood merged with the rest of the city, and its character began to change slightly. Many Jews lived in Kato (or lower) Ladadika, making it part of Thessaloniki's old Jewish quarter. Meanwhile, many French and Italian merchants resided in Ano Ladadika, giving it the name "Fragomahalas" (Frankish Quarter).

Up till the end of the 19th century, the Ladadika market thrived as goods like olives, raisins, wine, and oil were transported by horse and cart from the port to nearby warehouses. In this way, Ladadika became a wholesale market that supplied all of northern Greece. As well as warehouses and shops, there were cobblers making shoes, shops that made sacks, and charcoal vendors. 

With so many people working or passing through, a catering industry developed, including tavernas that served tradesmen and port workers, who worked long hours and had their lunch breaks there. 

Over the years, Ladadika grew into one of the region’s most important portside markets.

The decline of the Ladadika area began in the years before the First World War when many brothels appeared. In 1917, the Great Fire of Thessaloniki destroyed around 70% of the city and, although Ladadika was saved from the flames, the market never fully recovered

This decline was gradual and continued until the major earthquake of 1978, after which the area was abandoned for nearly two decades. However, in 1985, the Ministry of Culture designated Ladadika as an area of cultural value. This was because of the special architectural style of the 19th century buildings found there. And today, it is the only neighbourhood in Thessaloniki that preserves a glimpse of the city's pre-1917 character.

After 1985, a redevelopment programme for the listed buildings commenced. Former brothels were transformed into modern businesses, and an area once known for its crime blossomed into a vibrant recreation hub, filled with enticing smells and bright colours, making Ladadika one of the most popular neighbourhoods of the city.