9. The church of Agia Sophia

The Church of Agia Sophia in Thessaloniki is one of the city’s most important Byzantine monuments and its centuries-old history has earned it a place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. It is dedicated to the wisdom (or Sophia) of God.

The oldest written reference to the church dates from 795 AD, but archaeological evidence suggests it was built in the late 7th century on the site of a 5th-century basilica that had been destroyed by an earthquake.

Architecturally, the church belongs to the cross-in-square style of Byzantine churches that was an evolution of the domed basilica. And as various conquerors passed through Thessaloniki, its use changed. It began as a Byzantine Christian church and the city’s cathedral before being transformed into a cathedral during Thessaloniki’s Latin (or Western) rule following the Fourth Crusade of 1204. Orthodox worship resumed when Byzantine rule was restored in 1224, but was interrupted again with the Ottoman’s capture of Thessaloniki in 1430, when it was converted into a mosque. 

After the liberation of Thessaloniki from the Ottomans in 1912 and its incorporation into the newly established Greek state, it was converted back into a Christian church and today it functions as the Metropolitan cathedral of Thessaloniki.

The Church of Agia Sophia is notable for its impressive decorations, created at different times of its history. In the sanctuary arch, there is a mosaic from the Iconoclastic period of the Byzantine Empire (when the veneration of religious images became a major issue), and the inside of the dome is decorated with a remarkable mosaic of the Ascension of Christ from the late 9th century, considered one of the finest examples of Byzantine art from that period.

The frescoes are more recent than the mosaics, which were added in the 11th century, when the narthex (just inside the main entrance) was also added. Notably, the church contains sculptural decorations from the 5th to the 7th centuries, meaning that some elements are older than the church itself and probably come from earlier buildings on the same site.

Overall, the decoration of Agia Sophia combines various techniques and styles from different periods, creating an impressive ensemble that reflects its long history and the diverse artistic influences over the centuries.

As you stand at the entrance of the forecourt of Agia Sophia, with your back to the church, you will see directly across from you an impressive corner building constructed from red bricks. This is the Loggos Mansion, otherwise known as the "Red House". Built in 1926 by architect Leonardo Gennari for industrialist Grigorios Loggos, this three-storey building is distinguished by its red brickwork and eclectic design, with Art Nouveau, Neo-Byzantine and Gothic influences. The Red House is a unique example of interwar architecture and a reference point in the city.