16. The Church of Agios Dimitrios

Saint Dimitrios is the patron saint of Thessaloniki and one of the most important saints of the Orthodox Church. Born to noble parents in Thessaloniki in around 280 AD, he was raised a Christian at a time when the city was still under Roman rule and the influence of polytheistic idolatry. His intelligence and character led the Emperor Galerius to single him out, giving him offices that gave him administrative and military responsibilities in Thessaloniki.

However, Dimitrios used his position to spread the Christian faith in Thessaloniki. This infuriated Galerius, who was an ardent opponent of Christianity and he demanded that Dimitrios renounce his faith. When he refused to do so, Galerius had him arrested and imprisoned in a Roman bath near the stadium. The story goes that while imprisoned, Dimitrios encouraged a young Christian student of his named Nestor to face the invincible idol-worshipping gladiator Lyaeus in games organised by Galerius at the stadium.

Nestor defeated Lyaeus, further enraging Galerius, who ordered the execution of both Nestor and Dimitrios.

Dimitrios was martyred in around 306 AD by being pierced with a spear. His body was buried near the site of his execution and over time a tomb was built in his honour. It is said that a fragrant oil, myrrh, emanated from the tomb and was believed to have miraculous healing powers. This miracle earned him the title of Myrovlitis or "Myrrh Streamer". 

In 413 AD, the prefect Leontios, governor of Illyricum, a key administrative region in the Roman Empire, constructed the first church in Saint Dimitrios' honour on the site of his martyrdom. According to tradition, Leontios was cured of a serious illness after visiting the tomb and, in gratitude, decided to demolish the stadium where gladiatorial games were held and build a monumental, three-aisled basilica. The Roman bath next to the stadium, where Saint Dimitrios was killed, was turned into a crypt. 

Saint Dimitrios is credited with saving Thessaloniki from danger many times. His feast day is celebrated on October 26, a day that coincides with the liberation of the city from the Turks, in 1912 and its incorporation into the then newly established Greek state.

The Church of Saint Dimitrios in Thessaloniki is one of the city's most important Byzantine monuments and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over the years, the church was expanded from a three-aisled basilica into the impressive five-aisled basilica we can admire today. Be sure to admire the Virgin of Jerusalem icon in the narthex and the shrine containing the relics of St Dimitrios, as well as frescoes and mosaics. 

The crypt is especially impressive. It consists of a complex of underground arcades and corridors that were part of the ancient Roman baths where St Dimitrios was martyred and buried. In the centre of the crypt, you will see the columns that supported a marble dome. This is the spot where holy water once flowed, and later, the myrrh collected by the faithful. In the crypt, you’ll also find vessels used for collecting myrrh, along with remnants of frescoes, inscriptions, and sculptures.

Very close to the Church of Saint Dimitrios are two Ottoman monuments. One is Aigli Yeni Hamam, located next to the church. Estimated to have been built in the 16th century, it served as a bathhouse until the liberation of Thessaloniki from the Ottomans in 1912. Since then, it has been used as a cinema and concert hall. Its interior operates as a bar and its courtyard as an all-day café-bar in summer. The other nearby Ottoman monument is the Alatza Imaret. Built in 1484, it served not only as a mosque but also as a poorhouse and religious school, providing aid to the poor and education to the young. The name Alatza, meaning "multicoloured", referred to the colourful stones adorning its minaret. After the city's liberation from the Ottomans and the population exchange between Greece and Turkey, the Alatza Imaret housed refugees from Asia Minor.